How Did Hong Kong Become a Fashion Center
The history of Hong Kong style
A expect back at 60 years of Hong Kong's style evolution
Hong Kong has always had style. We've been channeling the East-meets-W expect and making information technology our ain for the last six decades. Arthur Tam travels back in fourth dimension to revisit and recreate the defining moments of Hong Kong'due south way history, as represented by the virtually notable female icons of these eras. Photography by Calvin Sit down. Art direction Jeroen Brulez. Stylists Arthur Tam and Nick Chan. Hair by Dior Tsoi assisted by Yui Lam. Make upwardly by Gloria Chan from Willmakeup. Model: Jaclyn Yang from Mission Models.
Hong Kong has a colourful history of fashion. Take a look dorsum through the decades from the 1950s right upward to the 1990s, and it's easy to see a progression and definable change in trends that reverberate shifts in economic prosperity, the influences of myriad foreign cultures, the rise of amusement and, of course, the power of the consumer zeitgeist.
Before China became the manufacturing behemoth that information technology is today, most of the world looked to Hong Kong for skilled tailors and designers that could develop their brands and labels. For much of the Western earth Hong Kong was a gateway into Asia. Equally cultural mixing began, so did the development of our city's unique culture and its East-meets-West mode sensibilities.
Taking a trip down retention lane, we can see that Hong Kong has given birth to a multifariousness of fashionable icons who captured the styles and trends of the time. From the 50s, nosotros have the immortal extraLin Dai, whose youthful and tragic death shocked the city, just as a upshot solidified her legendary look in intricate, exquisitely tailored and colourful cheongsams. In the 60s we had the charming and congenial teen idolConnie Chan Po-chu, who starred in an impressive 230 films, including her iconic part in The Black Roseas a Robin Hood-manner true cat burglar, giving her the nickname of HK'southward very ain 'bail daughter'. Chan's fresh face and infectious grinning, combined with her impeccable pastel A-line dresses and hairband resonated with audiences. The 70s gave us the prolific extraJosephine Siao Fong-fong, who played the kooky and quirky character Lam Ah-chun in Lam Ah-chun. The graphic symbol became an instant hitting and her look has been recreated time and time once more with the iconic bob, circular spectacles, plaid shirt and bell-bottoms. In that location is no question that the legendary fierce chameleon of style,Anita Mui, dictated trends in the 80s. The vocaliser and actress pulled off the Saint Laurent Le Smoking look, the large shoulder powerful vogue await, and the androgynouss look that even Boy George would envy. Mui was a real superstar and had a hand in catapulting the names of local designers every time she wore their outfits. So, of form, we progressed to the 90s, when the widely popular and revered singerFaye Wongstepped into the spotlight with her atypical siren similar voice and her couldn't-care-less-what-you-think attitude. Wong's look was an ethereal interpretation of grunge with costless-flowing outfits and outrageous hairstyles – the most eye catching was her pinecone hairdo.
Here, nosotros present a lookbook re-interpreting the women that have defined Hong Kong's manner history – breaking downwardly each decade from the 50s to the 90s, via their respective sartorial highlights.
1950s
Eastern tailoring meets Western taste
Epitome inspired past Lin Dai
Out of the state of war and into business. During the 1950s, preferential tariffs were offered to Hong Kong by countries of the British Commonwealth, meaning that goods could be imported cheaply from HK, stimulating trade. Combined with the influx of Mainland refugees that brought along capital, textile knowledge and infrequent tailoring skills, Hong Kong naturally became an ideal spot to develop a garment manufacturing industry. "We had mass manufacturing companies similar Lai Dominicus and Jan See Mee," says associate managing director of the Hong Kong Design Institute Raymond Au – also known as 'the godfather of HK fashion'. "A lot of beginner designers worked in that location and produced coincidental wear that was exported mainly to the US and UK."
During this time women still primarily had their clothes fabricated. "Our helper fabricated our clothes," says guru stylist Tina Liu, who started her career inCity Magazine xxx years ago as a stylist and editor and is now a highly demanded image consultant. "Manufacturing plant girls would wear a simple tunic with bias lapels and trousers, but for the more flush Chinese women, you can see these intricately tailored and form fitting cheongsams with floral accents. A lot of skilled tailors from Shanghai came to make these 'traditional looks'. At the same nosotros also had Western influences from Hollywood films likeGone With the Air currentand soon a western artful caught on."
You could run across stars like Lin Dai rocking both looks. One with lavish, detailed and colourful cheongsams and the other with tight fitted uncomplicated tops with flared skirts, which can exist seen in her film,Spring is Not For Schoolhouse. When people weren't having their wearing apparel made, they could purchase simple casualwear at the two major department stores of the fourth dimension, Wing On (founded in 1907) and Sincere (founded in 1900), which both exist today.
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Cheongsam Shanghai Tang, $4,800
Necklace Nora Woo, $7,330
Shoes Vintage Chanel from
Once Style, price upon request
1960s
Manufacturing and trade developments
Paradigm inspired by Connie Chan Po-chu
During the swinging 60s, Hong Kong'due south economic system really began to flourish with fashion buyers from all around the world coming to our city to buy fabrics and place orders on completed designs. "Hong Kong was picking upwardly on an influx of international information and started making garments for a lot of international brands," says Au. In 1966 the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) was fix to create a platform to bring manufacturers, designers, buyers and traders all together, which helped stimulate the garment industry and expand the styles of dress that were available.
"The mod await also started coming in and influencing the younger generation. People looked up to idols like Lam Fun, Siu Fong-fong and Chan Po-chu," says Liu. The modern wait was one of Connie Chan Po-chu's signature styles, with her polka dot, pastel and colour blocking dresses all brought together by headbands. "At this fourth dimension cheongsams were still in style but their popularity began to decline, while the desire to have Western-styled article of clothing grew exponentially and tailors adapted to their skills to meet the demand," says author/editor Janice Wong, who recently released her second book,My Fashion Odyssey of 25 Years. London trench coats became all the rage (despite our metropolis's unforgiving atmospheric condition) as did the appearance of miniskirts, A-line dresses, tight-knit pants and blouses. More than masculine silhouettes started appearing in womenswear while Chan started taking ass-boot heroine atomic number 82 roles in major films.
In 1968, the HKTDC and the Hong Kong Bedroom of Commerce put on the commencement ever ready-to-wear festival, which showcased looks from local designers and articles. "It marked a menstruation where people started to have an interest in style blueprint. 1 of the starting time style designers in Hong Kong was David Shee-kwan, who went on to develop his manufacturing company called David & Davids," says Au.
__ Trench CoatGucci, $29,500
Skirt Gucci, $11,500
Headband Stylist's ain
Bracelet Stylist'due south own
Shoes Vintage Celine's from One time Way, price upon request
1970s
Local pop civilisation prompts local fashion
Inspired by Josephine Siu Fong-fong as Lam Ah-chun
The nearly significant modify in this decade was the ascent of local Tv pop culture, spearheaded past TVB (usually referred to as 'Wireless Tv') and Rediffusion Television set, which is now ATV. "Back so, TV stars were just as pop if not more pop than moving-picture show stars," says designer and vice chairman of the Hong Kong Fashion Designers Association (HKDFA), Walter Ma. Ma gained tremendous popularity during this time with stars like Deborah Dik Boh-Laai and Liza Wang wearing his dresses. "It was common for local brands to sponsor outfits to TV stars," says Wong. "And when families tuned in during dinner fourth dimension that'due south the fashion that they absorbed."
There was a large initiative from the HKTDC to promote local designers alongside Ma like Ragence Lam (the very get-go winner of the Hong Kong Young Designer's Competition in 1977), Benny Yeung and Eddie Lau, who would later create some of Anita Mui's almost iconic stage looks. "Back so the HKTDC put a lot of focus on helping designers," says Ma. "Designers would get sponsored trips to go overseas to learn about fashion and the media had a focus to help requite local designers coverage – a stark contrast to how information technology is now."
I of Hong Kong's first fashion lifestyle magazines,Sisters, was established in 1970.Sisters would come out with weekly coverage of popular trends while giving a shout out to local talent. Another pivotal fashion moment of the 70s was the establishment of Joyce Boutique, which started at a humble corner of Fly On Department shop merely soon moved and took up infinite at the Mandarin Oriental. "You cannot talk near the history of Hong Kong fashion without mentioning Joyce Ma," says Wong. "[Joyce Bazaar founder] Joyce Ma is the one who brought more than tasteful and selective brands to Hong Kong," agrees Liu.
"What she did influenced a generation of manner lovers. And she's good. Being the outset isn't enough, they also accept to be good."
Ma was responsible for bringing high-end luxury brands into Hong Kong like Giorgio Armani and Prada and then later introducing edgier, advanced labels like Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and John Galliano. In 1979, Joyce opened its own standalone store and played a major role in providing exclusive items to socialites.
On the ready-to-wear side of things, women started wearing slim-waist dresses, leggings, hot pants, bell-bottoms, plaid shirts and big shawl collar jackets. The fashion icon of this era belonged to Josephine Siu Fong-fong and the character she portrayed inLam Au-chun. Women were progressively adopting more comfortable styles of wearing apparel. Denim became extremely popular and Hong Kong companies like Blindside Bang made a killing by satisfying the need.
On the education front, Hong Kong Polytechnic Academy was established in 1972, expanding the opportunities for people interested in manner to written report pattern.
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Sunglasses Karen Walker from the9thmuse, $three,150
Sweater No 21, $6,870
Jeans J Make from Lane Crawford, $ii,400
Shoes Proenza Schouler from On Pedder, $7,590
1980s
The Gilt Era of Hong Kong fashion
Image inspired by Anita Mui
This was the gilt era of finance in Hong Kong, but many facets of pop civilization and fashion also thrived. Manufacturers were no longer just producing low to middle range products, they were besides becoming producers for high-end fashion. From 1984 to 1985 Hong Kong was the earth's number one garment exporter. Yet, at the same time People's republic of china was undergoing its reform policy, which prompted the outset of the end for Hong Kong manufacturing.
"Our consumption as well as our production of fashion was at its peak [in the 80s]," says Wong. "I think about 40 per centum of labourers were in garment making. As you know, nosotros have the skills for it. Too, during this time, we finally started having fashion editorials and the wider public was getting in touch with style." In 1984,Cosmopolitan came to Hong Kong, followed byElle in 1987 andHarper's Bazaar in 1988. Luxury brands were paying attention to Hong Kong's growth and brands like Chanel and Jean Paul-Gaultier entered the market. High-end fashion destination The Landmark opened up in Cardinal in 1983, and LVMH opened their office in 1987 – bringing with them their host of labels.On the local front end, Joyce began to expand and manner tycoons like Dickson Poon and Harvey Nichols, as well as Sir David Tang of Shanghai Tang began to make their presence known. On top of that, Vivienne Tam had merely graduated from PolyU and was pursuing a dream in fashion that she would later come up to fulfil. "We were actually on a fashion show together," says Au. "Back then, there was a tv set station called CTV and they invited Vivienne and I to be the hosts and to talk about style and fashion. The show however, didn't last long and the station somewhen went bankrupt. Simply other influential shows like Enjoy Yourself Tonight started popping up and people were able to meet how stars mode and apparel."
"The 80s was a wonderful time for fashion," says Ma. "People were into the disco and party scene and people were and then daring nonetheless put together with what they wanted to wear. Business organization was booming for me as well. I used employ a hundred people back and then with a few shops around the city. Local designers were as well making some headway past setting up shop at the Beverly Center. Back then, Carina Lau was only starting out equally an actress and she would come up to my shop and buy clothes."
The daring and bold fashionistas of the 80s were typified by Leslie Cheung and Anita Mui. Cheung played upward his boyish good looks, flaunting Japanese-inspired suits, baggy trousers, tank tops and jeans, while Mui stood for female empowerment with a more than masculine padded- shoulder wait. "Women were starting to become executives in companies, so they needed a stronger and tougher expect with wide shoulders and pant suits," says Au. Mui came out with controversial songs likeBad Girl andWicked Woman, where she dressed in flashy Middle Eastern and androgynous outfits designed by Eddie Lau. In short, people had fun with fashion in the 80s.
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Earrings Lulu Frost from the9thmuse, $1,850
Jacket Sass & Abide, $8,299
Wearing apparel Vintage Alaïa from Once Manner, price upon request
Necklace Once Style, price upon asking
Bracelet Lionette from the9thmuse, $three,798
Rings Dear Bell, $298
1990s
The age of exclusivity
Image inspired by Faye Wong
By the 1990s, Hong Kong had solidified itself as a modernistic globe metropolis with a very flush upper course. "Socialites were the master appeal for international luxury brands," says Wong. "Tai tais would buy a total await – caput-to-toe in one make and they would e'er ask if any celebrity has worn the look. Back and then actors and singers were seen every bit lowly, then the rich wouldn't want to crossover with any of their outfits. Brands like Chanel were very exclusive and they would never lend clothes for celebrity editorials."
For the rest of us, American influences of loose-plumbing equipment wear and casualwear took the chief stage. Condolement was of the upmost importance and no one during this decade encapsulated that better than Faye Wong with her flowy grunge outfits, which gave off a listless and disaffected appeal.
By this time the HKTDC had been hosting two fashion weeks per year and local mainstream brands were popping up all effectually with chains like Bossini, Giordano and G2000. Though, past no means were these brands dictating local trends. Trends were still being established at Paris Fashion Week on the catwalk with emerging designers from Europe and Nihon.
"The thing with Hong Kong is that we've ever but had the money to consume, but nosotros didn't have the ability to dictate way," says Wong. And as rent prices increased, local designers were forced to forego their shops and get to back to working with corporations, while major brands were the only forces that were able to afford the hikes. "I used to take a shop in Harbour Urban center," recalls Ma, "merely even I had to eventually move out."
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Top Muji, $200
Wearing apparel Muji,$200
Backpack Stylist'south own
Shoes Balenciaga from On Pedder, $7,700
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